Monday, February 25, 2008

Destination 3 - Dublin

From the very beginning, Dublin charmed me in every way possible! A young, growing city at the same time retaining it's rich culture and heritage, Dublin has remained one of my two favorite cities in Europe. Along with the countless activities housed in this relatively small city, there were quite possibly the friendliest people I've run across in my travels. The perfect example was when Madelaine and I first made our way into the city from the airport. First, the bus driver went off of his route to drop us off closer to where our hostel was to be. Then, walking around Dublin at 10pm (and with no idea of how to get to our hostel) we happened to run across an American from Texas who had moved there. He walked us to the police station in order to get directions to our hostel! Once we got there, the policemen were unbelievably helpful (and not one bit annoyed that our American friend had been banging on the desk window for about five minutes). Without their kindness, it would have been a much longer night...

The next day we started off early (something which those of you who know how much I love to sleep may have a hard time believing...). First we explored the Talbot/Henry Street area where our hostel was, and made our way to the famous Ha' Penny Bridge (people used to be charged half a penny to cross it...now fortunately free! Hey, we're college students...we'll take what we can get!)

The first day was largely devoted to churches and tours. We started out with Christ Church, and upon seeing the 4 Euro entry fee, were a little hesitant (4 Euro to visit a church? REALLY?) However, once we got in we found it WELL worth the money. We were given a pamphlet with extensive explanations of pretty much every aspect of the church (including it's history, and how it had gone back and forth between Anglicanism and Catholicism), and it took us on a self-guided tour including the lower level. Much to my surprise, I also discovered that it was an Anglican-Episcopalian church!



Doors along Merrion Square. Story to come later...

Floor details in Christ Church depicting the "foxy friars"


Christ Church
After our visit to Christ Church, naturally made our way to St. Patrick's cathedral. Perhaps the most impressive aspect of this church was the fact that there were so many artifacts and statues throughout the building. One of the best was the "Door of Reconciliation." The story goes that in a long, bloody fued between the houses of Ormond and Kildare, it came down to the Earl of Ormond taking refuge in the Chapter House. The Earl of Kildare wanted to end it peacefully, but the other did not believe him. In order to gain his trust, the Earl of Kildare cut a hole in the door and thrust his arm in to shake the Earl of Ormond's hand.

St. Patrick's

Stained Glass window in St. Patrick's Cathedral
After grabbing a quick bite to eat, we made our way to Dublin Castle. I must admit, I was a bit skeptical about this part. Mad really wanted to see the state room tour, so I decided to go along with it. I am SO glad that I listened to her! It was much better than expected, and the tour guide was great. We even got to see the room where the Belfast talks took place (Yes, I'm a huge poli sci nerd!). We also got to see where the moat had been surrounding the castle (and still does). We were also told how Dublin got its name - from the gaelic term for "black pool."


Our tour guide in Dublin Castle...and the table where the Belfast talks took place!!! I wonder where Clinton sat...


One of the state rooms used for receptions (still in use, actually)


Original wall of the castle...with mortar made of animal blood and some other component, I can't really remember. This came from the Viking heritage of Ireland (where the red-heads come from...)
After walking by city hall following our tour of the castle, we needed a break. Where to go.....AH, YES! The Guinness Storehouse! The self-guided tour itself wasn't that impressive to tell you the truth...the building has about 7 floors, each with a different theme (advertising, the brewing process, etc). The first three or so were good, but then you could tell they were stretching it a bit.
Our FAVORITE floor was of course the top floow - the 360 Degree Bar! With the tour, you get a free pint of Guinness to be enjoyed in this awesome bar. Other than the elevator, you get a 360 degree view of Dublin while sipping a refreshing Guinness! Somehow Mad and I timed it out PERFECTLY, so we were there right around sunset. Definitely the perfect way to relax after a long day!

My fave advertisement in the tour...


360 Degree Bar
After grabbing a dinner of Fish & Chips (YUM!), we decided that we wanted to really experience Dublin. In the best way possible. If you haven't guessed already, that means going to a pub and hearing some live music. So began our quest to find the perfect pub...
Let me tell you, it wasn't easy. First we tried the famous Temple Bar area (which was definitely hopping), but so many of the pubs were 21 and over, so Mad couldn't get in (some were even 23 and over...what?!?) We kept walking and walking, trying to found one that felt right. We were about to give up, when we ran across "The Celt" which was conveniently about a block away from our hostel. As soon as we walked in the doors, it felt PERFECT! Live music every night, and it had a cozy/friendly feeling to it. We grabbed a pint and waited for the music to start.
The music itself was PHENOMENAL! People were singing along (um...including me) and some even got up and started dancing. If we hadn't planned on getting up so early the next morning, we could have very well stayed there all night!

Beautiful Dublin at night...


Mad at the Celt



Our Pub!!!
Early start the next morning = DEFINITE need for a strong cup of coffee. After accomplishing goal number one, we walked around Merrion Square, which was surrounded with doors painted bright colors. As promised earlier, here's the story behind them: They used to be painted black until one night a drunken man came back to the wrong house after a long night at the pubs. He actually got in bed with the wrong wife, and when the husband came home, he shot the imposter and killed him. Immediately thereafter the wives in the area painted their doors different colors to avoid another mistake...and there you go!
The square had a beautiful garden inside (St. Stephen's Green) with ponds, etc, and an Oscar Wilde memorial.
Seeing as it was St. Patrick's Day, we decided that we should celebrate it properly...by seeing St. Valentine's BONES! A bit dark, yes, but what do you expect from a single girl on Valentine's Day?!? Anyway, the relics were housed in Whitefriar Street Church, and we happened to grab a peek before services started.

St. Valentine's Relics
After checking out the relics, we went meandering around Dublin. We saw the Molly Malone Statue, the Bank of Ireland, Trinity College, and the Liffy River. The last two "academic" stops of the day for us were the National Museum and St. Michan's Church.
St. Michan's Church was probably one of the most bizarre experiences in ALL of my travels in Europe. First of all, our tour guide was a nut. No, REALLY. He must've been certifiably INSANE. Everyone in the tour was trying to stifle giggles as he went on with his sound effects and crypt-keeper-esque voice. The tour itself led us down into the crypts below the church, which are famous for the mummified bodies which are on display dating back from the crusades. They also included rebels who had been executed (hence our guide's sound effects of hangings, being quartered, etc. oh yeah, it was interesting...)
The WEIRDEST part of the tour was when the guide slid the gate away and said we could "shake hands" with the body if we wanted. WHAT?!? Apparently rubbing the finger of the crusader's body was considered good luck. At first we weren't sure if he was serious...oh yes. He WAS.
After St. Michan's, we decided that no trip to Dublin would be complete without a trip to the Jameson Distillery. I now have a new respect for Irish Whiskey. The tour here was MUCH more informative than the Whiskey Experience in Scotland and the Guinness Storehouse tour. It was also neat, in that at the end they did a taste-testing comparing American whiskey to Scotch Whisky to Irish Whiskey.
For dinner we actually went to the oldest pub in Ireland - "The Brazen Head." Good food, and it's always fun to say you've been there, BUT we decided that our allegiance was now with our pub "The Celt," so after dinner we walked along Grafton Street, grabbed a dessert for a treat (c'mon, it's Valentine's Day! Mad's boyfriend was stateside, and I don't have one...we definitely deserved it!)
To end the night, we hung out at "The Celt," and heard some more GREAT music! We also met a couple from Edinburgh who were visiting Dublin, and found out that their son had actually been a ski instructor in Innsbruck, and the wife was a German teacher and had studied in Vienna! Anyway, we talked with them pretty much all night and they even treated us to a couple beers...some of the nicest people I've met! (Although I'll admit, I was still having trouble understanding the Scottish accent...especially after a couple pints)

The Brazen Head - the oldest pub in Ireland


Mad enjoying the Spar sandwiches...YUM!


Me at the Jameson Distillery

Me "shaking hands" with the crusader at St. Michan's


Big still...


Taste-testing at Jameson


Me and my free whiskey...


Shopping center along Grafton Street



Ha' Penny Bridge


The Dublin Spire


For dumb tourists like us...since traffic goes backwards. Not going to lie, definitely needed this at times...haha


Me and Mad at the Guinness Storehouse


Me and my complimentary pint of Guinness in the 360 Degree Bar


Fish & Chips!


Me at The Celt



Live music at the Celt!


St. Stephen's Green...and my coffee. Crucial.


The Molly Malone Statue

Model of Viking Ship at the National Museum

As I said before, Dublin is one of my favorite cities! It's one of those cities where you immediately feel welcomed and at home in! I'd travel back there in a heartbeat...who knows, maybe I could move there after I graduate!

1 comment:

Anonymous said...

Interesting to know.